Toronto Free Press Restaurant Guide

North 44

An unparalleled success

Jr. Sous-chef Sash Simpson

North 44 2537 Yonge St. Toronto, Ont. 416-487-4897 Hours: Monday to Saturday, 5 p.m. until the last reservation.

When we were first told that we would be given the opportunity to sample the New Continental cuisine of North 44, the first thing that went through our minds was,"Oh my God, what do we wear?" In a panic, we left the office two hours early to seek out the appropriate attire. We borrowed clothes from friends (and the Gap) and prepared for our journey to North 44.

Although we lost the address, we were on a rampage and nothing was going to get in the way of our mission.

After getting directions from another restaurant, we continued up Yonge St. until we reached our destination. Irritated, hot and starving, we gave our names to the maitre'd. He immediately seated us at a table in the formal dining room on the lower level of the restaurant.

Having two levels, North 44 is capable of seating 200 people, 80 upstairs and 120 downstairs. The formal dining room can be described as having an industrial/contemporary look. In a candle lit setting the room came to life with its neutral tones and white tablecloths. The mirrors that hung on both walls increased the size of the room substantially. The formal dining room also offers a semi-private room, where its patrons can speak freely, blocked from any noise.

Lost in our surroundings, we dove into the menu in an attempt to try something new. Before we could make a decision, our waiter came along and offered a cocktail from the bar. Glancing at the menu, we chose the first thing on the list, a Cosmopolitan Martini, which was shaken and poured at our table.

Finally soaking in the beautiful decor, we noticed the kitchen. It was spectacular and quite unique. A glass partition adorning the North 44 logo, was all that separated the cooking space from the dining area. Behind the glass, approximately five cooks were furiously preparing the meals for the evening. In full view of the patrons, the kitchen staff was obviously putting on a show, impressing everyone with their cooking techniques.

As our waiter came out of the kitchen with a breadbasket, we hesitated to dig in, as it looked like a wonderful piece of art. We didn't know whether to eat it or bring it to a museum! After finally succumbing to hunger, we each grabbed a slice of toasted pita, and were in heaven.

Considering the fact that toasted pita is very crispy, we inevitably made a rather large mess. Not to worry though, our waiter came along and swiftly eliminated the scattered remains of the pita with a flick of his "crumber."

After becoming thoroughly confused with the appetizers, we decided to order the "Mixed Platter" where we couldnÌt go wrong. And wrong we didnÌt go! It came with two jumbo shrimp on a bed of cucumber and chive salad (which was probably garnish, but we ate it anyway), two vegetable spring rolls, an octopus salad, a Roma tomato with bocconcini cheese and basil as well as a lobster salad surrounded by carpaccio.

As we argued over the oven-roasted lobster, since we had heard so much about it, the roasted chicken caught our eyes. We decided on who would have the lobster (Julia won the battle) and enjoyed our appetizers while we waited.

Once the entrees arrived and we had been "crumbed" again, we prepared to chow down. The lobster was served without the shell and infused with buttery, soupy rice. It also came with parchment baked vegetables. The roasted chicken was served on a bed of garlic spun mashed potatoes and a side of oven roasted green beans, sweet potatoes and beets. Both were equally delectable.

For dessert, we ordered the "Mixed Platter". It was enough to feed an army! Complete with seasonal berries, a chocolate torte, apple crostata topped with cinnamon ice cream, banana crisp and fresh mango, papaya and pineapple, this was the piece de resistance.

To complement the delicious dessert, we ordered loose leaf tea, served in a cast iron pot. We had the classic orange pekoe and floral jasmine teas.

North 44 also offers an upstairs dining lounge, which is less formal. Patrons can enjoy live jazz music played by a solo pianist or they can reserve the private room, which can seat a maximum of 20 people and offers complete privacy. The upstairs dining room is also smoking, whereas the downstairs is not.

Celebrating their 11th year of service this May, North 44 offers a mixture of Asian, Italian, French and Californian cuisine which creates the perfect blend of flavours.

The wine list (which is Japanese to us) is approximately 20 pages in length and ranges from red French vintages to Californian whites, which are on display in the basement wine cellar.

Mostly attracting the business class, a dinner at North 44 for two will cost from $150 to $250. With a menu that includes such gourmet meals as lobster, Atlantic salmon grilled to perfection, steaks, chops and chicken to die for, North 44 definitely caters to everyoneÌs taste buds.

Voted the "most popular" restaurant in a Zagat Survey, North 44 is a fantastic place to go for all occasions.